El Cap then El Nap

A crazy zoom-out video of Cathie and Julie right below El Cap Tower, about halfway up El Cap

Getting stoked

The plan

Our planned day-by-day breakdown for climbing The Nose

Day 0: Fixing to Sickle Ledge, 7am — 4pm

Cathie leading up Pitch 0, Pine Line
Julie jugging up the fixed ropes, as I haul Hauly up above her
Our hero Harry, who hiked in my 70m rope and some ice cream to the base of sickle
We took the afternoon to swim in the river and cool down — it was pretty hot in the valley!
Enjoying our last bite of civilization for a few days, at the Curry Village Pizza Deck, while reviewing the topo.

Day 1: Ground to El Cap Tower, 5am — 5pm

Getting an “alpine start” - jugging our fixed lines by headlamp
The incredible Stovelegs crack — continuous beautiful hand and fist crack for multiple pitches! Cathie had led these pitches a few weekends ago during a practice run, so Julie got to lead them this time — what a treat!
Julie on top of Texas Flake — what a brave lead!
Cathie jugging up the Texas flake pitch — that’s what the inside of Texas Flake looks like!
Julie sort-of freeing the calf of Boot Flake, ladders flying in the wind
It was a bit chilly, so Julie taught me a trick to stay warm — by putting your hot Mountain House dinner inside your jacket! Just make sure not to squish it though…
Cathie admiring the golden hour light, snug as a bug in a rug
Julie getting ready for bed, with Hauly docked on the ledge behind her

Side note: where’s the bathroom?

The “El Crap”, the nicest wag bag on the market by far. The odor-proof outside bag is critical!
The Poopmaster 9000. Our friends wrote motivational phrases on it, such as “Turn those carbs into GLORY!”

Day 2: El Cap Tower to Camp V, 6am-7pm

Watching the sunrise from El Cap Tower — majestical!
Tom Evans (of elcapreport.com) got some photos of Julie swinging and succeeding! As he advised us when we met him in El Cap meadow — “you gotta fuckin’ run for it!”
It’s not a real big wall climb if you don’t have at least a few rope shenanigans
Getting excited for some fun climbing! Cathie is racked up and ready to lead
The Great Roof, from below — quite intimidating!
Cathie at the anchors after the Great Roof
Cathie freeing (or french freeing) the Pancake Flake
Julie getting snug on her inflatable portaledge at Camp V
Harry’s view of us from the ground, as we eat our hot dinners and the G7 portaledge flaps in the wind
Cathie and Julie setting up camp at Camp V

Day 3: Camp V to the top! 7am-4pm

Cathie at the top of the Changing Corners pitch, where she got a bit shaken up
Julie taking over on the sharp end after Changing Corners, leading up the overhanging hand crack
Julie leading the Kor Roof on Washington Column — a perfect way to prepare for the final bolt ladder!
Julie leading the final pitch, feeling excited and proud
The exposure — you could look all the way down the route, to the base of the Nose
Julie and Cathie victorious at last, at the Nose tree
Cathie attempting to top out, fighting the rope tangles as our summit support crew cheers on
Our summit support crew, who hiked all the way up to meet us with resupplies!
Celebratory partner hugs at the summit!
My flamingo-husband Harry came to bring us resupplies! (The flamingo hats were left over from my bachelorette party, which was also in Yosemite a few months ago).

Day 4: Back to civilization

Harry, Kenny, Marty, and Adam being the best summit support flamingoes, hiking Upper Yosemite Falls
Harry and I slept in the G7 pods on top of El Cap — I wanted Harry to experience the magical pod life!
Julie carrying Hauly the haul bag to the base of El Capitan. Hauly’s a big girl!
The DanFi hook is an adjustable fifi hook engineered / made by Dan Shanks
Our Hawaiian-themed weekend climbing Washington Column together
The elders — Mel, Dan, and Milde — climbing the Nose a year ago (June 2021)
Goofing around in El Cap Meadow after getting back to the valley

Side note (optional reading): Preparation

Blood, sweat, and tears — these were my hands after a few “heavy bottom girls” training sessions, and climbing Washington Column. Training wasn’t always easy, but it was always a good time :)
Teaching “Adam the Boulderer” how to jug the fixed line in my backyard, while Arya watches on (really, I just needed an excuse to include an Arya photo)
Julie’s shot of me following on Washington Column — you can see Dinner Ledge and Honeymoon Ledge below!
Our annotated Nose SuperTopo, with pitch-by-pitch gear recommendations and reminders
The yard sale in the driveway as we packed up our gear
Watching sunset over Tuolumne from the top of El Cap, while savoring our success!



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